
On Saturday, January 12, 2013, our small town blossomed with thousands of women and men in fancy dress. No, I’m not talking about a masquerade ball, I’m talking about the pollera.
The pollera is the local, hot-weather version of the fancy velvet and lace dresses imported from Spain during the height of the Spanish influx into Panama. And the Mil Pollera (thousand polleras) event gave women all over the country the chance to strut their elaborate, traditional dress.
This is the third year that Las Tablas has hosted the event, and the first one I’ve had a chance to see.
The parade was scheduled to start at 2 PM. Shortly after 2 we walked into town hoping to find a good vantage point. We chose a spot about halfway down the town’s main shopping street, near the end of the parade route.
When we arrived, thousands of spectators lined the shady side of the street. Vendors of cold drinks, snacks, sunglasses and umbrellas (or parasols, depending on how you use them) were doing a brisk business.
We found a good spot and I took out the camera.

This was a viewing stand a few feet away from where we were standing.
The first group of marchers reached us at about 2:30, then there was a long gap before any more parade activity. There was plenty to see, though, as many of the spectators were also wearing their polleras.

About half an hour later, the main body of the parade arrived. Each group had a leader waving a flag announcing where they were from. Communities from all over the country had sent representatives. Most groups included both women and men in traditional, formal dress, followed by musicians. Smaller groups had drummers, and larger groups added various instruments including trumpets, trombones and one lonely violin.

In addition to the towns, some businesses sent groups as well. One prominent bank was represented.

Throughout the afternoon, the crowds grew thicker. Eventually the watchers stood five or six deep along the edge of the roadway, and short people like myself could barely see the tops of the marchers’ heads.

Throughout the afternoon, the crowds grew thicker. Eventually the watchers stood five or six deep along the edge of the roadway, and short people like myself could barely see the tops of the marchers’ heads.
By that point we’d been watching for about three hours, so we decided to call it a day and go rest our feet.
Next year we’ll know to bring chairs.
Here’s a 7-minute video showing some highlights of the parade. Enjoy!
Enjoyed your Mil Polleras video, Susanna. I’ve never viewed such an event, but I do recall vividly meeting the beautiful daughter of our Panamanian mail who was dressed in her pollera (when living in CZ in 1941-42). The elaborate hair ornaments are just exquisite!
I’m hoping you’ll be getting over to Boquete, David, and nearby areas now that you have a car in Panama. Would like to hear what’s happening and more on your ideas on the cost of living in those areas. After visiting a few years ago, I’ve thought a lot about living in Boquete (or Volcan?).
Appreciate all your reporting on various aspects of expat living in Panama!
Thanks, Shirle, glad you liked it.
Yes, I do plan to get around Panama more, and will be writing more about different areas.
All the best,
Susanna
The ladies look absolutely wonderful in those dresses!